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Canon PowerShot Pro1

The PowerShot
Pro1 ($999) is the new flagship camera in Canon's consumer line
of digital cameras. Packing a whopping 8 Megapixel CCD, a 7X "L"
lens, full manual controls, beautiful LCD and electronic viewfinders,
and more, the Pro1 is one of the most impressive fixed-lens cameras
out there.
The 8 Megapixel field has grown considerably
since the introduction of the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828 (read our
review). That camera was plagued with purple fringing and noise,
due in part to the tightly-packed pixels on the 8 Megapixel sensor.
Was Canon able to get rid of the junk in their 8 Megapixel images?
Find out now, in our review!
What's in the Box?
The PowerShot Pro1 has an excellent bundle.
Inside the box, you'll find:
The 8.0 effective Megapixel Canon PowerShot
Pro1 camera
64MB CompactFlash card
BP-511A li-ion battery
Battery charger
Remote control
Neck strap
Lens cap w/strap
Lens hood
Filter adapter
USB cable
A/V cable
CD-ROM featuring Canon Digital Camera Solutions, ArcSoft Camera
Suite, and drivers
203 page camera manual + software manual (both printed)
I don't know if anyone else noticed, but the Pro1 and the Olympus
C-8080WZ are the only 8 Megapixel cameras to include a memory card
in the box. While the Olympus includes a 32MB xD card, the Pro1
includes a 64MB high speed CompactFlash card (Canon doesn't say
how fast -- based on my tests, I think 8X). That's a decent starter
card, but these 8MP images take up a lot of memory, so you'll want
a larger card right away. I'd suggest 512MB as a good place to start.
The Pro1 can use Type I or Type II cards, including the Microdrive,
and it supports the FAT32 format for cards larger than 2GB.
The Pro1 uses an even more powerful version
of the "famous" BP-511 battery, known as the BP-511A.
Where the BP-511 had an impressive 8.1 Wh of energy, the 511A has
an amazing 10.3 Wh. That puts it at or near the top of the pack
for lithium-ion batteries. Canon estimates that you can take around
420 photos per charge, or spend 400 minutes in playback mode.
My usual complaints about proprietary batteries
apply here. They're expensive, and you can't put in a set of alkalines
to get you through the rest of the day like you could with an AA-based
camera.
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When it's time
to recharge, just drop the battery into the included charger. This
is my favorite style of charger -- it plugs right into the wall.
It takes about ninety minutes to fully charge the battery.
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Canon includes
a lens cap, but no retaining strap, which is used to protect the
lens. Note that the lens cap only fits the way you see it -- or
upside down. You can't spin it while it's on the lens. |

There are a
few extras in the box as well. The lens hood above comes in very
handy when you're shooting outdoors. |

If you're a
filter-lover, then you'll appreciate the included filter adapter.
Putting it on was a little awkward, but once you do, you can screw
on the 58 mm filter of your choice.
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The final included
accessory is the good old WL-DC100 wireless remote control, which
you've seen before. You can take pictures, operate the zoom lens,
and do slideshows from up to 5 meters away. The Pro1 has remote
sensors on the front and right side.
Now, let's talk accessories. Since there are many options, I just
dumped them into this handy chart:
|
| Accessory |
Model # |
Price |
Why you want it |
| Telephoto
lens |
TC-DC58A |
$250 |
Boosts
focal distance by 1.5X, up to 300 mm; requires LA-DC58C
conversion lens adapter; you must use the tripod mount
on the lens instead of the one on the camera |
| Close-up
lens |
500D (58mm) |
$83 |
Get even
closer to your subject in macro mode; requires LA-DC58C
conversion lens adapter |
| External
flash |
220EX,
420EX, 550EX |
$110-$330 |
For added
flash power and flexibility |
| Wireless
flash controller |
ST-E2 |
$180 |
Control
up to two 420/550EX slave groups wirelessly |
| Macro ring
lite |
MR-14EX |
$450 |
For
macro flash shots |
| Macro twin
lite |
MT-24EX |
$650 |
| AC adapter |
CA-560 |
$85 |
Power the
camera without wasting your batteries |
| Soft case |
SC-DC30 |
?? |
Protect
your investment |
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There are a few
items I didn't mention there, and they're all various battery chargers.
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Canon is now
up to version 16 of their excellent Digital Camera Solutions software.
Included in this package are ZoomBrowser (for Windows) or ImageBrowser
(for Mac), PhotoStitch (for making panoramic photos), plus TWAIN
and WIA drivers for Windows. Zoom/ImageBrowser can be used for downloading
images from your camera, basic editing of your photos, and photo
printing.
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If you shoot
in RAW mode, then you'll probably be using the RAW conversion tool
built into Zoom/ImageBrowser to manipulate those images. For those
who don't know about RAW, it's a lossless format that lets you manipulate
various properties of your image -- a kind of virtual reshoot. Botch
the white balance? Just change it in the RAW file, and it's just
like you took the photo again. You can also adjust the saturation,
sharpness, contrast, tone curve, and more.
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Also built-in
to the "Browser" software is RemoteCapture, which you
can use to control your camera over the USB connection. Images are
saved directly to your computer.
For some reason, the bundled
ArcSoft Camera Suite is different than the one that came with the
PowerShot S410 and S500 -- which were introduced at the same time
as the Pro1. Windows users can use PhotoStudio 5.5 and VideoImpression
2, while Mac users get the old PhotoStudio 4.3 (the S410/500 came
with PhotoImpression 5) and VideoImpression 1.6.
While Canon's manuals are
still better than average, they seem a little more complex than
they used to be. Either that or I'm getting dumber.
Look and Feel
The PowerShot Pro1's build
quality is exceptional. The body is made of a mixture of sturdy
metal and high grade plastic, and it feels great. There's a large
right hand grip, and there's room for your left hand as well (there
has to be, as you'll be using it to zoom). While the Pro1 suffers
a bit from "button clutter", the most important controls
are easy to reach.
Let's take a look at the dimensions
and weight of the Pro1 versus the competition:
| Camera |
Dimensions (WxHxD) |
Volume (bulk) |
Mass |
| Canon PowerShot Pro1 |
4.6 x 2.8 x
3.5 in. |
45.1 cu. in. |
545 g |
| Minolta DiMAGE A2 |
4.5 x 3.4 x
4.5 in. |
68.9 cu. in. |
565 g |
| Nikon Coolpix 8700 |
4.5 x 4.1 x
3.1 in. |
57.2 cu. in. |
480 g |
| Olympus C-8080WZ |
4.9 x 3.3 x
3.9 in. |
63.1 cu. in. |
660 g |
| Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828 |
5.3 x 3.6 x
6.2 in. |
118.3 cu. in. |
955 g |
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As you can see, the Pro1 is
the smallest (but not the lightest) of the bunch. The Sony F828
is enormous compared to the Pro1!
Let's begin our tour of this camera
now!
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The
thing that makes the Pro1 stand out from the competition is its
F2.4 - F3.5, 7X optical zoom "L" lens. The lens has a
focal range of 7.2 - 50.8 mm, which is equivalent to 28 - 200 mm.
The lens itself isn't threaded, but you can remove the ring around
it (by pressing the button to the lower-left of it), and then attach
one of the adapters I mentioned in the previous section.
If you know anything about
Canon lenses, you know that the "L" lenses mean quality
-- and price. The lens features both ultra-low dispersion and fluorite
elements, which are there to produce sharp images with a minimum
of purple fringing. Like the PowerShot S1 that was announced at
the same time, the Pro1 features an ultrasonic lens motor (USM),
which allows for precise and quiet zoom operation. The zoom mechanism
is a little different than what you're used to, and I'll explain
that a little later.
Directly above the lens is
the pop-up flash, which has a working range of 0.5 - 5.0 m at wide-angle,
and 1.0 - 3.5 m at telephoto. If that's not enough light for you,
you can attach an external flash to the hot shoe that you'll see
later in the tour. That white square below the flash is the redeye
reduction lamp.
To the upper-left of the lens
is the Pro1's hybrid autofocus sensor -- the first time such a thing
has been found on a Canon camera. This system is used to speed up
focusing (as opposed to just a contrast detection-based system),
though it's unclear if it helps in low light.
Just below the AF sensor is
the self-timer lamp. Over on the grip (left side), you can see both
of the remote control receivers (one of them is hard to see). |

The
Pro1's LCD can flip-out and rotate, just like it can on several
other Canon models. You can see some of the available positions
in the photos above and below. If you point the screen toward your
subject, the camera will "flip" the image on the screen
so it's oriented correctly.
And how is that LCD? It's beautiful. First of all, it's quite large,
at 2 inches diagonally. But even more impressive is the resolution
-- this screen has 235,000 pixels and it looks amazing. Even the
menus look great. Movement on the screen is very fluid, as well.
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Here's
the back of the Pro1, with the LCD in a more traditional position.
Directly above the LCD is the electronic viewfinder, or EVF. If
you liked the LCD, then you'll love the EVF, as it has the same
amazing resolution. In fact, I'd say that the Pro1's EVF is the
best I've seen -- though keep in mind that I'm yet to see the one
on the Minolta DiMAGE A2. It still doesn't compare to a real optical
viewfinder, but for what it is, it's very good. In fairly low light,
I found the EVF to be usable, but not as good as cameras that really
amplify what's on the screen (the DiMAGE A1 comes to mind).
There's a diopter correction knob, which focuses
the image on the EVF, on the left side of the eyepiece.
Just to the left of the EVF is the display
button, which switches between the LCD and EVF. On the opposite
side is the Pro1's mode dial, which has a ton of options. These
include:
| Option |
Function |
| Movie Mode |
More on this later |
| Stitch Assist |
For help making panoramic shots |
| Night Scene |
For night shots |
| Landscape |
For landscapes |
| Portrait |
For portraits |
| Fully Auto |
Point-and-shoot mode, most settings
locked up |
| Programmed Auto |
Camera chooses shutter speed and aperture.
All menu options are unlocked. |
| Shutter Priority (Tv) |
You choose the shutter speed, and
the camera picks the proper aperture. You can choose from
a number of speeds ranging from 15 sec - 1/4000 sec. The
1/2000 sec speed is only available above F3.2 at wide-angle,
and F4.5 at telephoto. The 1/4000 sec speed is only available
above F5.6 at wide, and F8 at tele. |
| Aperture Priority (Av) |
You pick the aperture, and the camera
picks the appropriate shutter speed. The choices range
from F2.4 - F8 and will vary, depending on the current
focal range. |
| Full Manual |
You pick the aperture and shutter
speed. See above for values. |
| Custom Settings C1/C2 |
Your favorite camera settings, easily
accessible |
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I should mention the program
shift feature, which is available in program mode. By halfway pressing
the shutter release, then hitting the AE/AF lock (*) button, and
using the command dial, you can scroll through sets of aperture
and shutter speeds. This is an easy way to force a faster shutter
speed or a smaller aperture, without having to use the manual modes.
The two custom spots on the mode dial
are where you can store your favorite camera settings for easy retrieval.
This is a great feature that not too many cameras have.
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Back
to the tour now. Just below the mode dial is the function button,
which is also used to quickly "jump" through your photos
in playback mode. Pressing the function button brings up -- get
this -- the function menu! Here's what it includes:
ISO speed (Auto, 50, 100,
200, 400)
Photo effect (Off, vivid, neutral, low sharpening, sepia, black
& white, custom effect)
Bracketing (AE, focus)
Flash adjust (-2EV to +2EV, 1/3EV increments)
Flash strength (1 - 3) - only shown in manual mode
Compression (see chart later in review)
Resolution (see chart later in review)
The photo effect feature lets you quickly change the color of your
image, or turn down the sharpness. For more control choose the custom
effect option, which lets you adjust the contrast, sharpness, and
saturation in three steps.
There are two types of bracketing
on the Pro1. The first is the usual AE bracketing, which takes three
shots in a row, each with a different exposure value (in 1/3EV increments).
Focus bracketing is the same idea, except it's used in manual focus
mode (which I'll discuss in just a second). The camera takes a shot
at the chosen focus setting, plus one closer, and one further away.
The next item on the back
of the camera is the four-way controller, which is used for menu
navigation, as well as for changing exposure compensation and white
balance. The exposure compensation range is the usual -2EV to +2EV
in 1/3EV increments, while the white balance options are auto, daylight,
cloudy, tungsten, fluorescent, fluorescent H, flash, custom 1, and
custom 2. The two custom settings allow you to shoot a white or
gray card, to get perfect color in nearly any lighting. I appreciate
having two settings, as well -- great if you shoot in situations
with non-standard lighting (like me!).
Below the four-way controller
are the set and menu buttons -- both of which are used for menu
navigation. The set button also activates the FlexiZone autofocus
system, which lets you put the focus point just about anywhere in
the frame (save for a margin around the edges).
Below those two buttons, under
a plastic door, are the Pro1's I/O ports. These include USB, DC-in
(for optional AC adapter), and A/V out. It's too bad that the flagship
PowerShot camera doesn't support USB 2.0!
On the far right side of the
photo are three buttons. They're for:
Manual focus {record
mode} / Voice caption {playback mode}
AE/FE lock {record} / Delete photo {playback}
Info - toggles what is shown on the LCD/EVF
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Back
to the tour now. Just below the mode dial is the function button,
which is also used to quickly "jump" through your photos
in playback mode. Pressing the function button brings up -- get
this -- the function menu! Here's what it includes:
Manual focus mode lets you
use the zoom ring to set the focus you desire (you must hold the
MF button down first). A guide is shown on the LCD/EVF, giving you
the approximate focus distance. The center of the frame is enlarged
(not shown above), so you can make sure that your subject is in-focus.
After using manual focus, you can press the "set" button
to have the autofocus see if it can improve on what you came up
with.
The sound memo feature
lets you attach sixty second sound clips to each photo. The "star"
button will lock the exposure or flash exposure (depending on whether
you're using the flash or not). |

There's
plenty more to talk about on the top of the Pro1. But first, I'd
like to talk about the zoom mechanism. Most cameras have buttons
or a switch that electronically tell the lens when to zoom. A few
others allow you to move the lens (mechanically) yourself. The Pro1
is a mixture of both. By turning the ring around the lens, you electronically
tell the zoom to move. Turn it a little, and the lens moves a little.
Really crank it, and you can quickly zoom in or out. It takes getting
used to, but I think Canon did a good job with the implementation
of the zoom ring.
The ultra sonic motor makes
the whole process very quiet. If you're quick, you can move the
lens through the zoom range in about two seconds. Canon has markings
on the lens showing the current focus distance -- in regular and
35mm-equivalent numbering.
Okay, now back to our tour.
At the left end of the above photo are two buttons. In record mode,
these are for flash setting (auto w/redeye reduction, auto, flash
on w/redeye reduction, flash on, flash off) and macro mode (on/off).
In playback mode, they operate the "zoom and scroll" feature
that I'll describe later.
To the right of those buttons
is the Pro1's hot shoe. The hot shoe fully supports all of the flashes
that I listed in the first section of the review, and they can sync
as fast as 1/250 sec. You can use your non-Canon flash as well,
but you'll have to put both the camera and the flash into manual
mode. The maximum sync speed with a non-Canon flash is 1/125 sec.
The next item over is the
LCD info display, which displays a ton of camera settings ranging
from battery life to shutter speed to flash setting. Since this
is all described in the manual, I'll spare you the details. I will
mention that there's a backlight for the screen, which is activated
by pressing the lamp button to the right of the screen.
The other buttons adjacent
to the LCD info display include one for metering (evaluative, center-weighted,
spot) and another for drive (single-shot, continuous, self-timer).
I'll have more on the continuous shooting mode later in the review.
Below those three buttons
is the power/mode switch, which turns the camera on and off, and
also moves between record and playback mode. At the top-right of
the photo is the selector dial (used for adjusting manual controls),
as well as the shutter release button.
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The
only thing to see on this side of the Pro1 is the speaker. You can
catch a glimpse of the EVF's diopter correction knob, as well.
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The
opposite side of the Pro1 is where you'll find the memory card and
battery compartment, which are kept behind a sturdy plastic door.
Before we took a closer look at that, I wanted to point out just
how far the lens sticks out when it's at the full telephoto position.
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Here's
the side of the Pro1 with the door opened up. The battery goes on
the left, and the CompactFlash card on the right. This is a Type
II CompactFlash slot, which supports regular CF cards, as well as
thicker ones like the Microdrive.
It's hard to see here, but there's a small
watch battery that goes into a slot just above the battery compartment.
This stores your camera settings, even if the main battery is removed.
The included battery and memory card
are shown at left.
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We
end our tour with a look at the bottom of the camera. The only thing
to see here is the metal tripod mount, which is neither centered,
nor inline with the lens.
Using the Canon PowerShot Pro1
Record Mode
The PowerShot Pro1 starts up quickly,
taking just 3 seconds to extend its lens and "warm up"
before you can start shooting. |

The
external AF sensor helps the Pro1 focus quickly. In most situations,
I found that the camera locked focus in 0.6 - 0.8 seconds after
halfway-pressing the shutter release. If the camera has to "hunt",
expect slightly longer delays. I did notice that the EVF freezes
for about a second while the camera tries to lock focus, which may
be an issue for action photography (the LCD was a little better).
Low light focusing was better than expecting, but I think an AF-assist
lamp would've been helpful.
Shutter lag was not a major problem, even
at slower shutter speeds.
Shot-to-shot speed is very good on the Pro1
(as it usually is on Canon cameras). You will wait for just 1.5
seconds before you can take another shot (even in RAW mode, unlike
on the Sony F828), assuming that you've turned off the post-shot
review feature.
You can delete a picture as it's been saved
to the memory card by pressing the delete photo button. If you really
meant to take the photo in RAW mode, just press the function button,
and the camera asks if you'd prefer to save the image in that format
instead.
Now, here's a look at the image size and quality
choices available on the Pro1:
| Resolution |
Quality |
Approx. file size |
# Images on 64MB card
(included) |
Large
(3264 x 2448) |
RAW |
9.0 MB |
6 |
| Superfine |
3.4
MB |
17 |
| Fine |
2.0
MB |
29 |
| Normal |
980
KB |
62 |
Medium
1
(2272 x 1704) |
Superfine |
2.0 MB |
30 |
| Fine |
1.1 MB |
54 |
| Normal |
556 KB |
110 |
Medium
2
(1600 x 1200) |
Superfine |
1.0
MB |
61 |
| Fine |
558
KB |
109 |
| Normal |
278
KB |
217 |
Medium
3
(1024 x 768) |
Superfine |
570
KB |
107 |
| Fine |
320
KB |
189 |
| Normal |
170
KB |
349 |
Small
(640 x 480) |
Superfine |
249
KB |
241 |
| Fine |
150
KB |
393 |
| Normal |
84
KB |
676 |
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I explained the RAW format
at the beginning of the review. There's no TIFF mode, so if you
require that format, you'll need to take a RAW image and then convert
it in software.
Images are named IMG_xxxx.JPG,
where x = 0001 - 9999. The file numbering is maintained even if
you replace and/or format memory cards.
Now, onto the menus!
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The
PowerShot Pro1 has the same menu system as the other PowerShot models.
The items found here include:
Flash sync (1st, 2nd-curtain)
- when the flash fires when taking slow sync shots
Slow synchro (on/off)
Redeye reduction (on/off)
Flash pop-up (on/off) - whether the flash automatically pops up
Continuous shooting (Standard, high speed) - see below
Self-timer (2, 10 sec)
Wireless delay (0, 2, 10 sec) - delay before picture is taken when
optional remote control is used
Spot AE point (Center, AF point) - what part of the frame is used
to judge exposure while in spot metering mode
ND filter (on/off) - see below
Safety shift (on/off)
MF-Point zoom (on/off) - turns on focus point enlargement feature
in manual focus mode
AF mode (Continuous, single) - whether camera is always focusing,
or only when the shutter release is pressed halfway
Digital zoom (on/off) - using this will reduce photo quality
Converter (None, telephoto, close-up) - for when you're using a
conversion lens
Review (Off, 2-10 sec)
Color space (Standard, Adobe RGB)
Reverse display (on/off) - whether the camera flips the image on
the LCD when the screen is rotated toward the subject
Super macro (on/off) - discussed later
Intervalometer - see below
Save settings (to the C1 and C2 positions on the mode wheel)
There are two choices for continuous shooting on the Pro1. Standard
mode shoots at 1 frame/second, while high speed shoots at 2.5 frames/second.
I was able to take 18 shots in a row at the standard speed, and
9 at high speed. I found it difficult to shoot sequentially on this
camera, as the screen pauses briefly between shots, making tracking
a moving subject difficult (that's why I like optical viewfinders!).
I experienced this firsthand while trying to take pictures of surfers.
The neutral density (ND) filter
reduces brightness by a factor of 8. This lets you use a slower
shutter speed (or larger aperture) when shooting in bright light.
Canon is the only manufacturer to have this feature -- the G3 and
G5 had it as well.
The safety shift feature allows
the camera to adjust the shutter speed or aperture in Tv or Av mode
if necessary, to get a good exposure.
The Intervalometer tool lets
you use the Pro1 for time lapse photography. You select the interval
between shots (1-60 minutes) and the total number of shots to be
taken (2-100). Use of the optional AC adapter is strongly recommended.
|

There
is also a setup menu on the Pro1, so let's take a look at that now.
Here's what you'll find in the setup menu:
Mute (on/off) - turn off those
annoying beep sounds!
Volume
Startup volume (Off, 1-5)
Operation volume (Off, 1-5)
Self-timer volume (Off, 1-5)
Shutter volume (Off, 1-5)
Playback volume (Off, 1-5)
LCD brightness (Normal, bright)
Power saving
Auto power down (on/off)
Display off (10, 20, 30 sec, 1-3 min)
Date/time
Card format
File number reset (on/off) - maintain file numbering
Auto rotate (on/off) - camera will automatically rotate portrait
photos on the LCD
Distance units (m/cm, ft/in)
Language (English, Deutsch, Français, Nederlands, Dansk,
Suomi, Italiano, Norsk, Svenska, Español, Chinese, Japanese)
Video system (NTSC, PAL)
The "My Camera'" menu allows you to customize the startup
screen, beeps, and phony shutter sounds that your camera makes.
If these bother you, you can also turn them off.
Well enough about menus, let's
do photo tests now.
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The
Pro1 produced a very nice rendition of our famous macro subject.
The camera captures a lot of detail, with tiny hairs and dust being
the evidence for that. Colors are nice as well -- with the red being
especially saturated.
The camera has two macro modes
-- regular (which I used above) and super.
Regular macro lets you get
as close to your subject as 10 cm at wide-angle. The lens won't
zoom any further out than 90 mm. The sweet spot appears to be at
63 mm, where you can fit a 87 x 65 mm subject in the frame.
Super macro mode lets you
get even closer: just 3 cm from the end of the lens to the subject.
The zoom range here is limited to 42 - 90 mm, with the latter being
the sweet spot. There you can get a 35 x 26 mm subject to fill the
frame. Not quite "Nikon macro", but pretty darn good nonetheless.
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If
there was less purple fringing in this shot, then it would be one
of the best versions of this shot I've taken. The sharpness and
detail is, in my opinion, excellent (don't forget that I was at
least 1.5 miles away). There is a fair amount of purple, especially
on the left side. The simple answer is to close down the aperture
(use a larger F-number). The images below have smaller apertures,
and you can see that the purple is mostly gone at F5.
Speaking of which, how does the Pro1
perform at higher ISO sensitivities? Here you go:
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ISO 50

ISO 100

ISO 200

ISO 400
As
you can see, ISO 200 and especially ISO 400 are quite noisy. I thought
that ISO 100 was a little above average in the noise department,
as well.
|

The
Pro1's 7X zoom lens shows moderate barrel distortion at wide-angle. |

There's
just a hint of redeye in our flash test. A great way to totally
banish redeye from your life is to use an external flash -- which,
as I mentioned, the Pro1 supports.
There were two problems that
plagued the Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828, the first 8 Megapixel camera
that I tested. Those were purple fringing (chromatic aberrations)
and noise. You won't escape either of those on the PowerShot Pro1,
but they aren't nearly as bad -- especially in the purple fringing
department. You'll still see both fairly often, and this may or
may not be an issue for you -- it really depends on what you plan
on doing with your photos. While nobody's nailed down the cause
yet (is it the lens, or the tightly-packed photosites on the CCD?),
one thing's for sure: 8 Megapixel cameras have more noise and purple
fringing than lower resolution cameras -- and you'll have to get
used to it, or learn to love Photoshop.
The Pro1 takes images that
are quite sharp, which adds to the noise levels a bit. Colors are
accurate, and the camera properly exposed most of the photos I took.
I must say that I raised an eyebrow when I saw vignetting in several
photos -- something I wouldn't expect from an "L" lens.
Overall, I'd rank the Pro1's photo quality as superior to the F828's,
and competitive with that from the Nikon Coolpix 8700. I haven't
seen the DiMAGE A2 yet -- but I'm looking forward to it.
Please, have a look at the
huge photo gallery, and see if the Pro1's photo quality meets your
expectations!
Movie Mode
The Pro1's movie mode is a
bit of letdown after testing the PowerShot S1. While you'll get
VGA resolution, you'll have a 30 second limit, and a slower frame
rate of 15 fps. Lower resolutions are available too: you can record
up to 3 minutes at 320 x 240 and 160 x 120. Sound is recorded at
all of those resolutions.
Another major difference between
the S1 and Pro1 movie modes is that you cannot use the zoom during
filming on the Pro1.
Movies are saved in AVI format,
using the M-JPEG codec.
Here's a sample movie
for you, recorded at the 640 x 480 setting:
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Click
to play movie (13.2MB, 640 x 480, AVI format)
Can't view it? Download QuickTime.
Playback
Mode
The Pro1 has the same, excellent playback
mode as seen on other Canon cameras. Everything is very snappy.
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The
Pro1 has all the basic playback features that you'd expect. That
includes slide shows, DPOF print marking, image protection, thumbnail
mode, and zoom and scroll. Playback mode is also the place to print
photos, when connected to a compatible Canon or PictBridge-enabled
photo printer.
The zoom and scroll feature
(my term) lets you blow up the picture up to 10X, and then scroll
around in the zoomed-in area. It's nice and fast!
By pressing the metering/sound
recording button on the back of the camera, you can add voice clips
of up to 60 seconds per photo. You can also rotate photos, or mark
for transfer to your e-mail program, assuming that you use Canon's
software.
If you've recorded a movie,
an editing function lets you trim unwanted frames from the beginning
or end of it.
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By
default, the Pro1 doesn't give you much info about your photos.
But press the display button and you'll get plenty of details, as
well as a histogram.
The Pro1 moves between photos
at a decent clip, with about a 1.5 second delay between high res
photos.
How Does it Compare?
The Canon PowerShot Pro1 is
a very good fixed-lens camera, providing ultra high resolution,
full manual controls, and a build quality that rivals D-SLRs. For
those expecting the Pro1 to cure the problems of the Sony DSC-F828,
you'll be disappointed -- as purple fringing and noise are still
apparent (though not as bad). The Pro1 takes nice, sharp, colorful
pictures, though expect some noise in flat areas and shadows, and
purple around some edges. I was certainly shocked to see vignetting
in three or four pictures -- and this is with the famous "L"
lens. This lens covers a nice range too, from 28 to 200 mm. If you
need more telephoto power, you can buy a teleconverter. Canon includes
support for filters right in the box -- a nice touch. While not
quite approaching the ultra macro mode found on some Nikon cameras,
the Pro1 can get just 3 cm from your subject.
In terms of performance, the
Pro1 is very snappy. It starts up fast, focuses quickly, and has
minimal shutter lag. Low light focusing was just so-so -- an AF-assist
lamp would've be nice. Battery life is excellent, as well, thanks
to the new BP-511A battery. The Pro1's build quality is really spectacular,
feeling more like an EOS-10D than a PowerShot. The fly-by-wire zoom
ring takes some getting used to, but most people will prefer it
over the zoom buttons on other cameras. Two things that are really
nice are the LCD and electronic viewfinder. They are bright, with
extremely high resolution, and the LCD can flip out and rotate as
well. The EVF was a little on the dark side in dim light, however.
Other nice features including a backlit LCD info display, and the
ability to save two sets of camera settings to spots on the mode
dial. Finally, while the Pro1 has a VGA movie mode, the brief 30
second time limit and sluggish frame rate make it less appealing
than others.
Thus far, I've only reviewed
two 8MP cameras: this one, and the Sony DSC-F828. I give the edge
to the Pro1 in most areas, most importantly image quality and manual
controls. The F828 does get points for a faster lens, superior AF
system, and nicer movie mode. It's also a hefty camera to carry
around, compared to the relatively compact Pro1.
The Pro1 is certainly an intriguing
choice for those who want D-SLR resolution and performance, but
don't want a bulky camera or pricey lenses. Don't expect D-SLR photo
quality, though, as the tiny 8MP sensor just can't compare. The
Pro1 gets my recommendation, but do careful research before you
buy!
What I liked:
Good photo quality (though
see issues below)
Fast 7X zoom lens with "L" glass (but several instances
of vignetting raised my eyebrows)
Full manual controls
Exceptional build quality
Robust performance
Interesting zoom ring around lens
Beautiful LCD (which can flip out and swivel) and electronic viewfinder
Impressive macro mode
Supports telephoto and closeup conversion lenses
Hot shoe for external flash
Lens hood, filter adapter included
Very good battery life
Can save favorite settings to spot on mode dial
Built-in neutral density filter
What I didn't care for:
Images slightly noisy; noticeable
purple fringing as well
Vignetting spotted in several images; surprising given the lens
So-so focusing in low light; no AF-assist lamp
Electronic viewfinder somewhat difficult to see in dim light
No live histogram in record mode
Movie mode limited to 30 secs, 15 frames/sec at highest resolution
Tough competition from D-SLRs
Other cameras worth considering include the Minolta DiMAGE A2, Nikon
Coolpix 8700, and Sony Cyber-shot DSC-F828.
As always, I recommend a trip
down to your local reseller to try out the PowerShot Pro1 and its
competitors before you buy!
Photo Gallery
Want to see some pictures?
Check out the photo
gallery!
Want another opinion?
Read another review at Steve's
Digicams.
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